Henro: Ch.1 - Shikoku 88 ... walking pilgrimage

MEANINGFUL TRAVEL | HENRO | PILGRIMAGES IN JAPAN | SHIKOKU88

By SENSEISTEVE88 October 2023

Shikoku88 is a circular pilgrimage to 88 Buddhist temples on one island in Japan.

Depending on the route taken (there is no set route, nor required order), somewhere between 1,200-1,400kms is required to be covered by a walking pilgrim to reach all 88 temples.

Legend has it that a shabbily dressed monk visited the house of Emon Saburō, richest man in Shikoku, in the 9th century seeking charity. Emon refused, broke the pilgrim's begging bowl, and chased him away. After this, one-by-one, Emon's eight sons fell ill and died. Emon became aware that Kūkai (the most famous character in Japanese Buddhism) was in fact the affronted pilgrim! Emon then set out to seek his forgiveness. He travelled around the island twenty times clockwise in vain, then undertook the route in reverse. Finally he collapsed exhausted and on his deathbed Kūkai appeared to grant absolution. Emon is regarded as the first Henro. His experience is why some believe there is 'merit' in doing the pilgrimage in reverse number order!

So called 'Sensei Steve' training in Brisbane heat Dec 23

The walking pilgrim is sometimes described as ‘erai’, which roughly translates to ‘great what you are doing’. Ironically it can also mean ‘tired/exhausted’! The vast majority of pilgrims now use car, bus, train and bike to ‘short-cut’ the 88-temple route. Few walk the entire distance unaided.

I first became aware of Shikoku 88 in 2003, (well before I met blind cat Sophie), whilst on an organised group walking tour called Backroads of Japan (often when we arrived at our nightly accommodation, the sign for our group would read ‘Welcome Backloads of Japan’).

Walking some of the old pilgrim trails around Kyoto and Asuka (Japan’s ancient imperial capital), stoked a fire that has nagged away in me ever since … a number 1 bucket-list item to become a walking Gaijin (foreigner) Henro on Shikoku.

So a plan was conceived that I referred to as @ 60 IN 60

On my 60th birthday in July 2024, the goal was to travel to Japan from Brisbane, Australia and do the 88 temples of Shikoku … walking every step of the way … in the hottest & harshest of conditions possible … and return to Australia … 60 days later ... one day for every year I had been on the planet.

What follows, is my story. A western born man seeking to reconcile his eastern heart …

Chapter 2 >